1924 : With Pierre Wertheimer founds Parfums Chanel. Wertheimer owns 70 percent, while the designer herself holds only 10. Over the next decades, they will engage in several legal battles over ownership stakes and rights. Chanel begins costuming Ballets Russes dancers with shocking new bathing suits. Dresses the lead ballerina in a pink maillot and a skullcap, which soon becomes fashionable headwear.

1926 : June: Designs the Greco-modern costumes for Jean Cocteau's Orph茅e. October: Introduces the Little Black Dress. Pandora Luxurye calls the design-done in the leading flapper, or gar?onne, style-"the frock that all the world will wear."